Where to Stay in Puglia: The Complete Guide to Italy's Stunning Heel

Before deciding where to stay, it's essential to understand Puglia's geography. This elongated region stretches nearly 400 kilometres from north to south, divided into distinct areas, each with its own character.

The Gargano Peninsula (North)

The mountainous Gargano Peninsula juts into the Adriatic Sea, offering dramatic coastal scenery, pristine beaches, and the dense Foresta Umbra. Towns like Vieste and Peschici serve as gateways to this less-touristed area, ideal for nature lovers and those seeking authentic experiences away from the crowds.

Central Puglia and the Valle d'Itria

The heart of Puglia encompasses the Valle d'Itria, a UNESCO-protected valley dotted with trulli (traditional cone-roofed houses), olive groves, and vineyards. Iconic whitewashed towns like Ostuni, Locorotondo, Cisternino, Martina Franca, and Alberobello cluster here, alongside the coastal towns of Monopoli and Polignano a Mare. This region offers the quintessential Puglian experience, balancing inland charm with coastal access.

Salento Peninsula (South)

The Salento forms the very tip of Italy's heel, where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet. Lecce, known for its ornate baroque architecture, anchors the region alongside the coastal gems of Gallipoli, Otranto, and Santa Maria di Leuca. Salento boasts some of Puglia's finest sandy beaches and a distinct cultural identity.

Valle d'Itria: The Heart of Puglia

The Valle d'Itria represents quintessential Puglia—rolling countryside punctuated by trulli, dry stone walls snaking through olive groves, and charming hilltop towns where time seems to slow.

Why stay here:

• Central location for exploring multiple towns without constantly changing accommodation
• Authentic countryside experience
• Excellent local cuisine and wine
• Cooler temperatures in summer compared to coastal areas
• Easy day trips to both Adriatic beaches and Salento

Best for: First-time visitors, couples, food and wine enthusiasts, photographers

Considerations: You'll need a car to fully explore the area. Beaches require a 15-30 minute drive.

Ostuni: The White City

Perched atop three hills, Ostuni's gleaming whitewashed old town rises above the olive-studded plains, earning it the nickname "La Città Bianca." This strategic location makes it perhaps the best single base for exploring Puglia.

Why stay here:

• Stunning hilltop setting with sea views
• Central to both Valle d'Itria towns and Adriatic beaches
• Vibrant evening atmosphere with excellent restaurants and bars
• Easy day trips to Alberobello (20 minutes), Monopoli (30 minutes), and Lecce (45 minutes)
• Beautiful beaches nearby including Torre Guaceto nature reserve

Best for: First-time visitors, couples, those wanting coastal access whilst staying inland

Considerations: Summer crowds can be intense, with the population swelling threefold. Parking can prove challenging during peak season.

Monopoli: Authentic Coastal Charm

Once overshadowed by neighbouring Polignano a Mare, Monopoli has emerged as a favourite coastal base. This working fishing port maintains its authentic character whilst offering visitors sandy beaches, a charming old town, and excellent seafood restaurants.

Why stay here:

• Proper town beaches within walking distance
• Active fishing harbour with daily catch on display
• Less touristy than Polignano a Mare
• Excellent train connections to Bari, Lecce, and intermediate towns
• Central for Valle d'Itria day trips

Best for: Beach lovers, families, those relying on public transport

Considerations: Town beaches get crowded in July and August. Sandy areas are limited compared to Salento beaches.

Lecce: The Florence of the South

Lecce's honey-coloured baroque architecture and vibrant cultural scene make it southern Puglia's unmissable city. Beyond its architectural splendour, Lecce offers an authentic urban base with outstanding cuisine at remarkably reasonable prices.

Why stay here:

• Extraordinary baroque architecture throughout the historic centre
• Lively atmosphere day and night with numerous bars and restaurants
• Excellent public transport hub for exploring Salento
• Outstanding local cuisine: pasticciotto, rustico leccese, caffè leccese
• Easy day trips to Otranto, Gallipoli, and Adriatic beaches

Best for: Culture vultures, architecture enthusiasts, foodies, those using public transport

Considerations: Lecce sits inland, requiring a 20-30 minute drive to reach beaches.

Gallipoli: Seaside Town and Beach Base

Gallipoli combines old-world fishing village charm with proper sandy city beaches—a rare combination in Puglia. The fortified old town extends onto a limestone island, whilst the mainland offers extensive sandy beaches.

Why stay here:

• La Purità beach—a proper sandy city beach steps from the old town
• Authentic fishing harbour atmosphere
• Superb seafood restaurants
• Stunning Ionian sunsets
• Easy access to southern Salento's best beaches

Best for: Beach holidays, seafood lovers, sunset chasers, those wanting a lively evening scene

Considerations: Extremely popular with Italian holidaymakers in August, resulting in higher prices and crowds.

The Gargano Peninsula: Northern Escape

The Gargano offers a different Puglia experience—greener, more mountainous, and distinctly less developed than the south. Vieste and Peschici provide bases for exploring dramatic coastlines, hidden coves, and the verdant Foresta Umbra.

Why stay here:

• Stunning, less crowded beaches
• Dramatic coastal scenery
• Nature and outdoor activities
• Authentic, unhurried atmosphere
• Day trips to the Tremiti Islands

Best for: Nature enthusiasts, hikers, those seeking authenticity over tourism infrastructure

Considerations: Remote location requires commitment—roughly two hours from Bari. Limited public transport. Shorter season than southern Puglia.

For those seeking the ultimate Puglian experience, staying in a carefully curated villa offers privacy, space, and authentic immersion in the landscape. Here are three exceptional properties that showcase the best of the region.

Villa Eterea, Selva di Fasano

Occupying a supremely panoramic position surveying vast stretches of Puglia's Adriatic coastline, Villa Eterea combines refined design with breathtaking views.

The Villa:

• Sleeps: 10 guests across 5 bedrooms (all en-suite)
• Features: Heated infinity pool, contemporary design, three-floor layout
• Views: Sweeping vistas across olive groves to the Adriatic Sea
• Location: Walking distance to local restaurants

This beautifully designed villa spreads accommodation across three floors, with the main level offering an open-plan living and dining area flowing onto a terrace that runs along the entire façade. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors frame those spectacular views—Fasano below, acres of olive groves, the sparkling Adriatic, and in the distance, Ostuni and Brindisi.

The heated infinity pool takes full advantage of its unbeatable position, surrounded by sun-soaked terraces. One bedroom even boasts its own private roof terrace—the perfect spot for sundowners.

Perfect for: Groups and families wanting contemporary luxury with easy access to Valle d'Itria towns (Alberobello 20 minutes, Ostuni 30 minutes) and pristine Adriatic beaches.

Nearby: Brindisi Airport (45 minutes), Monopoli (20 minutes), Polignano a Mare (25 minutes), Locorotondo (15 minutes)

Casino Doxi Stracca, Alezio

Rising proudly from five acres of mature gardens, vineyards, and olive groves, Casino Doxi Stracca is an 18th-century aristocratic home that exemplifies la dolce vita.

The Estate:

• Sleeps: 14 guests across 7 bedrooms (all en-suite)
• Features: 18m pool, plunge pool, baroque chapel breakfast room, extensive grounds
• Buildings: Historic palazzo and traditional casino
• Character: Original features, antique furnishings, contemporary luxury

This sensitively restored property offers a magical blend of old-world charm and discreet modern comfort. The accommodation flows through a historic palazzo and traditional casino, connected by gardens where an elegant mirror-pool reflects the handsome baroque chapel façade.

Inside, you'll discover interconnected reception rooms adorned with Iznik ceramics and Islamic pottery from the 10th and 11th centuries, star-vaulted ceilings in local tuff stone, and bedrooms featuring modern four-poster beds beneath ancient frescoes.

The grounds extend across five acres, incorporating formal gardens, olive groves, a striking colonnade flanked by Mediterranean pines and cypresses, and even a rustic temple folly. Multiple terraces offer various atmospheres—from the secluded plunge pool courtyard to panoramic terraces perfect for evening aperitivos.

Perfect for: Extended families and groups seeking grandeur, space, and privacy within easy reach of both Salento's beaches and baroque towns.

Nearby: Gallipoli (15 minutes), Lecce (40 minutes), pristine beaches north and south of Gallipoli

OttoConi, Martina Franca

Set amongst wheat fields, olive groves, and dry stone walls between Martina Franca and Alberobello, OttoConi offers an authentic taste of trullo living in a beautifully restored complex.

The Property:

• Sleeps: 6 guests across 3 bedrooms (all en-suite)
• Features: Eight trulli cones plus lamia, pool, panoramic gardens
• Character: Impeccably sensitive restoration, minimalist atmosphere
• Setting: Tranquil rural location with trulli views

This immaculately restored property unites eight original trulli cones with a traditional lamia, creating flowing spaces that honour the building's history whilst providing modern comfort. Venerable flagstone floors, soft-focus stone walls, exposed wooden beams, and ingenious use of typical trulli niches and alcoves create an atmospheric yet practical home.

The panoramic pool area features two pergolas—one hosting the al fresco dining area with built-in barbecue, the other furnished with cushioned sofas beside the pool. An outdoor fire pit provides the perfect setting for starlit evenings.

Perfect for: Couples and small groups seeking authentic trullo living, tranquillity, and a perfect base for exploring Valle d'Itria's hilltop towns.

Nearby: Martina Franca (13 minutes), Alberobello (14 minutes), Locorotondo (15 minutes), Ostuni (40 minutes)

How Many Bases Do You Need?

One week: Choose one base, preferably in the Valle d'Itria or Salento, depending on your priorities. From Ostuni or Lecce, you can cover significant ground on day trips.

10-14 days: Split your stay between two bases—ideally mixing coast and countryside. Consider Monopoli or Ostuni for the first week, then Lecce or Gallipoli for the second, or vice versa.

Two weeks plus: Three bases allow you to experience Puglia's diversity—perhaps Valle d'Itria, Salento, and either Matera or the Gargano Peninsula.

Do You Need a Car?

Without a car: Stick to well-connected towns on the main Adriatic railway line: Bari, Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, Brindisi, Ostuni (station 3km outside town), and Lecce. These make manageable bases using regional trains and buses.

With a car: Puglia opens up completely. You can stay in countryside villas, easily day-trip between hilltop towns, discover hidden beaches, and visit rural masserie. Roads are good, distances short, and outside August, traffic is light.

The freedom of a car particularly benefits those staying in the Valle d'Itria or Salento's interior, where public transport connections can be slow and infrequent.

When to Visit Puglia

Peak season (July-August): Warmest weather, liveliest atmosphere, highest prices. Beaches and popular towns get crowded, especially around Ferragosto (15 August). Book well in advance.

Shoulder season (May-June, September-October): Ideal timing. Warm weather, swimmable seas, fewer crowds, better availability. Many consider these the best months for Puglia.

Spring (April-early May): Beautiful countryside, wildflowers, pleasant temperatures for sightseeing. Some coastal facilities may not yet be open.

Off-season (November-March): Many coastal establishments close. Focus on cities like Bari, Lecce, and Taranto that maintain year-round life, or visit around Christmas for festive atmosphere.

Budgeting for Your Stay

Puglia offers excellent value compared to Tuscany or the Amalfi Coast, though prices have risen with its popularity.

Accommodation: Expect to pay €100-200 per night for comfortable mid-range stays. Luxury villas and masserie range from €300-1000+ per night. Book early for summer, especially for popular properties.

Dining: Outstanding value. Authentic trattorie serve complete meals for €20-30 per person including wine. Even fine dining rarely exceeds €60-80 per person.

Transport: Car rental typically costs €30-50 per day. Petrol and tolls are reasonable. Train travel is inexpensive—Bari to Lecce costs around €10-15.

Must-Do Experiences

Valle d'Itria:

• Explore Alberobello's UNESCO-listed trulli district
• Wander Locorotondo's circular old town
• Savour bombette at Cisternino's fornelli pronti (butcher-restaurants)
• Admire Ostuni's white labyrinth
• Discover Martina Franca's baroque palazzi

Salento:

• Marvel at Lecce's baroque architecture, especially Basilica di Santa Croce
• Sample pasticciotto and rustico leccese
• Visit Otranto's cathedral with its stunning medieval floor mosaic
• Drive the dramatic coastal road from Otranto to Santa Maria di Leuca
• Swim in the turquoise waters of Baia dei Turchi or Pescoluse

Coast:

• Photograph Polignano a Mare's iconic clifftop setting
• Explore Monopoli's working fishing harbour
• Discover Torre Guaceto nature reserve
• Enjoy aperitivos watching Gallipoli's Ionian sunsets

Beyond Puglia:

• Stay overnight in Matera's sassi cave dwellings (absolutely worth it)
• Visit Castel del Monte, Frederick II's octagonal fortress

Seasonal Considerations

Summer visitors should embrace the Italian holiday rhythm—long lunches during the hottest hours, evening passeggiata, late dinners. Many businesses close for several hours in the afternoon.

Shoulder season travellers enjoy more flexibility, better availability at top restaurants, and locals with more time to chat.

Off-season visitors should verify opening hours—many restaurants and attractions close or reduce hours significantly from November through March.

Best for Beach Lovers

1. Gallipoli (sandy city beach)
2. Monopoli (central, though rocky)
3. Vieste (long sandy beaches)
4. Otranto (sandy Adriatic coastline)

Best for Culture & Architecture

1. Lecce (baroque splendour)
2. Matera (UNESCO cave dwellings)
3. Ostuni (whitewashed hilltop town)
4. Martina Franca (baroque elegance)

Best for Authentic Experience

1. Cisternino (traditional bracerie)
2. Carovigno (local atmosphere)
3. Taranto's borgo antico (gritty authenticity)
4. Peschici (unspoilt Gargano)

Best for Food Lovers

1. Ceglie Messapica (gastronomic capital)
2. Bari Vecchia (street food heaven)
3. Lecce (Salento specialities)
4. Cisternino (bombette and bracerie)

Best for First-Time Visitors

1. Ostuni (central location)
2. Lecce (Salento base)
3. Monopoli (coastal convenience)
4. Valle d'Itria countryside (quintessential Puglia)

The beauty of Puglia lies not just in its stunning landscapes and architectural treasures, but in its ability to accommodate different travel styles. Whether you're drawn to the countryside tranquillity of a Valle d'Itria villa, the cultural richness of Lecce, the coastal charm of Monopoli, or the authentic atmosphere of lesser-known towns, Puglia rewards those who take time to slow down and savour.

The three villas featured in this guide—Villa Eterea, Casino Doxi Stracca, and OttoConi—represent the ultimate in Puglian accommodation, offering not just places to stay but experiences that immerse you in the region's beauty, history, and lifestyle.

Remember that choosing where to stay in Puglia isn't about ticking off the "best" location from a list—it's about matching the region's offerings with your travel desires. Use this guide as a starting point, consider your priorities (beaches vs towns, driving vs public transport, lively vs peaceful), and trust that wherever you base yourself, Puglia's magic will exceed your expectations.

The Thinking Traveller specialises in carefully curated villas across Puglia, each chosen for its unique character, quality, and ability to provide an authentic Italian experience. Staying in a villa offers the privacy, space, and flexibility to create your own Puglian rhythm—leisurely breakfasts overlooking olive groves, afternoon siestas by the pool, sunset aperitivos on private terraces, and the freedom to explore this magnificent region at your own pace.