Areas of Sicily
Sicily's coastline
Though you won’t find many locals in the water between October and May, for those accustomed to northern climes the sea temperature around Sicily is pretty much swimmable all year round, though don’t expect more than a quick dip when the water is at its coldest from December to April.
Our whistle-stop tour begins in Palermo. Heading west, one immediately arrives at the splendid sandy beach of Mondello, which for years has been a magnet for people from Palermo and the surrounding region. The best season for Mondello is between September and June as in the summer it can get very crowded.
Continuing west, one comes to the sandy beach of Castellammare del Golfo and then Scopello, with its pebbly beach at Guidaloca and the bathing area of the historic tonnara, and Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve. The reserve offers some excellent coastal walks, crystal clear waters and a delightful series of pebbly coves.
To the west of Lo Zingaro is the long sandy beach at San Vito Lo Capo, one of the finest anywhere in Sicily and popular with both tourists and the residents of Trapani.
The saline lagoon between Trapani and Marsala has been supplying salt for over 2,000 years, and the salt works make an interesting detour. Within the lagoon is a tiny archipelago including the island of Mozia (Motya), once a stronghold of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians. Slightly further off the coast, and clearly visible most days, are the Egadi Islands, very much worth a trip if you're in the area - a hydrofoil will get you there in about 15 minutes.
The southern coast of western Sicily is an almost continuous line of sandy beaches, including those at Triscina, Selinunte, Porto Palo di Menfi, Sciacca, and Eraclea Minoa. Of particular note are the white marl cliffs of the Scala dei Turchi near Agrigento.
Heading southeast now, past the sandy beaches around Licata, and bypassing the industrial town of Gela, one eventually comes to the seafront village of Scoglitti. From here until the southeasternmost tip of Sicily, the coastline is an uninterrupted stretch of sandy beach, dotted with picturesque little resort towns, including Punta Secca (Inspector Montalbano's home), Marina di Ragusa, Donnalucata, Cava d'Aliga, Sampieri and Marina di Modica. The last strip, made up of several miles of dunes, is where the Allied forces landed in the 2nd World War. At the southernmost tip of Sicily is Isola Delle Correnti, offering an almost African scenario. Indeed, here we are considerably further south than Tunis.
Just around the southeastern tip and heading north up the east coast, are the beaches of Marzamemi, San Lorenzo and Vendicari Nature Reserve. The reserve's salt water lagoons and varieties of flora offer the ideal habitat for a wide range of fauna, including nesting turtles and migrating flamingos.
Continuing up the east coast, between Vendicari and the historic Greek town of Syracuse, are the popular sandy beaches of Marina di Noto, Calabernado, Marina di Avola, Gelsomineto, Fontane Bianche and Arenella.
The wide sandy sweep of the Gulf of Catania gives way to a more rocky coastline, characterised by lava stone rocks and pebbly beaches. Many small fishing villages dot this line of coast, including Aci Trezza, whose intriguing sea stacks are said to be the rocks that Polyphemus hurled at Odysseus.
At the southernmost tip of Sicily is Isola Delle Correnti, offering an almost African scenario. Indeed, here we are considerably further south than Tunis.
The pebbly-sandy beaches below Taormina, including those at Giardini Naxos, Isola Bella, Mazzarò and Letojanni are particularly popular and this stretch of coastline is enchantingly beautiful.
Continuing north towards Messina, the coast is dotted with pebbly-sandy beaches, including the Blue Flag one at Santa Teresa di Riva, and great views of Calabria and the Italian mainland across the Straits.
Passing through Messina and heading around the northeasternmost tip of Sicily, one soon arrives at Milazzo and its 5km promontory thrusting out into the Tyrrhenian Sea, flanked on either side by sandy beaches.
Next stop is Tindari, with its famous tongue of sand and the beach and nature reserve of Marinello, and then onto San Gregorio, Capo D’Orlando and Torrenova with their splendid sandy beaches and views of the Aeolian Islands.
The north coast between Capo d’Orlando and Cefalù is a mixture of rocks and pebble beaches, such as those at Sant'Agata di Militello, Marina di Caronia and Castel di Tusa. Then comes the Norman town of Cefalù itself, overlooked by the monolithic headland of La Rocca, and a series of sandy-pebbly beaches that continues past Lascari and on to Termini Imerese.
Stepping westwards once more, we move towards the dramatic rocky outcrops of Capo Zafferano and Capo Mongerbino, which announce your arrival at Palermo and the Conca D’Oro, once a fertile paradise longed for by mariners through the centuries.
A note for those looking for a summer beach holiday: when the schools close for the summer between mid-June and mid-September, a large part of their diligently studious population heads for the beach to release tension. Then in August, the rest of the adult population heads for the beach too. There are still plenty of quieter beaches around, and we’ll tell you where they are, but be prepared to spend a little time driving to them.
The east of Sicily
The Ionian Riviera runs up the east coast of Sicily, from the bustling lava-stone city of Catania to the enchanting hill-top town of Taormina. In between is a series of charming fishing villages, a diverse range of evocative beaches, and a coastline of elemental beauty. Just 5km from Catania and a short drive from Taormina, is the bustling commercial satellite town of Acireale, with a lofty position above the sea offering stunning views not only of the Ionian Sea. Surveying all this from on high is the magnificent, mythical wonder of Mount Etna, whose presence has shaped the entire area geologically, culturally, gastronomically and historically since time immemorial.
Nature, food and wine
Mount Etna is the undisputed king of eastern Sicily, and hiking on its slopes is an unforgettable experience at any time of year. In the winter and spring, excellent skiing is possible and the upper slopes of Europe's highest active volcano are rarely without snow. The towns and villages that dot the flanks of Etna, all built in lava stone, are well worth stopping off at for a stroll or a spot of lunch in a local trattoria. North of Taormina, running up to Messina, are the Peloritani mountains, home to millennial villages (such as Savoca and Forza d'Agrò), deep valleys and stunning views. The east coast Ionian Riviera has some of Sicily's most picturesque pebbly and sandy beaches including those of Isola Bella, Mazzarò, Giardini Naxos and Letojanni (below Taormina).
The area around Mount Etna is famed for its mushrooms, sausages and cheese, while in Catania you should try pasta alla Norma (tomato sauce, fried chunks of aubergine, basil and grated salty ricotta, named after the opera of the city's most famous son, Bellini), arancini (deep-fried rice balls filled with meat sauce or mozzarella and ham), ice cream and granite (originally made with snow from Mount Etna). Vineyards cover the lower fertile slopes of A Muntagna, as the locals call their volcano, and the wine produced, using local grape varieties such as Nerello Mascalese and Carricante, is of excellent quality.
The east coast Ionian Riviera has some of Sicily's most picturesque pebbly and sandy beaches including those of Isola Bella, Mazzaro', Giardini Naxos and Letojanni (below Taormina).
History and monuments
Greeks first landed in Sicily at Giardini Naxos below Taormina in the 8th century BCE. During the following half-century, colonisers from various mother cities founded other settlements at Catania, Megara Hyblea, Syracuse and Gela, before pushing west to Agrigento and Selinunte.
The 17th century provided two defining events: the first, in 1669, was the eruption of Mount Etna that engulfed Catania in lava; the second was the earthquake of 1693, which destroyed swathes of Catania (as well as the towns of the Val di Noto). Catania's centre was rebuilt in elegant lava stone baroque style following a plan drawn up by the Palermitan architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini. Most of what you see today, including the Cathedral of Sant'Agata, Piazza Duomo, and the surrounding streets date from this period.
Catania, with its vibrant markets, restaurants and bars is relatively free of tourists, compared to Sicily's other historic towns, such as Taormina. Thanks to its splendid position, its picturesque weave of pedestrianised streets, its beaches and its Graeco-Roman theatre, whose view of Mount Etna are hard to beat, Taormina is Sicily's most visited town. During the summer months, the theatre plays host to a series of concerts, operas and other events featuring international stars.
The southeast of Sicily
The southeastern tip of Sicily is home to mile after mile of largely unspoilt sandy beaches and an impressive list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Rocky Necropolis of Pantalica, the towns of the Val di Noto, and the Villa Romana del Casale.
Nature, food and wine
Some of the best beaches in Sicily are to be found south of Syracuse, at Vendicari Nature Reserve and around the point on the south coast, where seemingly endless stretches of sand follow the coast through Pozzallo, Marina di Modica, Sampieri, Donnalucata, Marina di Ragusa and Punta Secca. The area around Portopalo di Capo Passero and Pachino on the southeasternmost tip is one of the largest areas for production of cherry tomatoes.
Inland, the Hyblean mountains provide a spectacle of rugged beauty with low stone walls and steep gorges, such as those at the Cassibile and Pantalica, and plenty of opportunities for hiking and mountain-biking. The rolling plains still further inland continue to produce the wheat that gave the hinterland of Sicily its nickname: the granary of Rome.
The cheese is particularly good around Ragusa (try Ragusano DOP), while Modica is famed for its cioccolato al peperoncino (chilli chocolate). The Cerasuolo di Vittoria and Nero D'Avola wines produced in the area are of excellent quality, while the historic fishing villages of Portopalo di Capo Passero and Marzamemi continue their traditions of preparing and packaging seafood delicacies, such as dried tuna roe salamis.
The southeast of Sicily boasts an exciting restaurant scene that encompasses everything from authentic trattorie to world-class eateries. Ragusa alone accounts for several of Sicily's many Michelin-starred restaurants.
History and monuments
Following its defeat of Athens in 413 BC, Syracuse became arguably the most important city in the western world and was home to many a great Greek, not least the great mathematician and scientist, Archimedes. Under the Romans, Syracuse continued to be the most important city on the island.
Syracuse, with its stunning archaeological site and the lovely island of Ortygia, and the towns of the Noto Valley are at last starting to receive the recognition they deserve.
In 1693 a massive earthquake ripped through southeastern Sicily, razing Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Caltagirone, Scicli, Caltagirone and Palazzolo Acreide to the ground and killing around five percent of the island's population in the process. Rebuilt in the early 18th-century, these towns are of immense architectural importance, shining examples of Sicilian baroque extravagance and rococo invention.
Syracuse is one of the Mediterranean’s most fascinating towns. Its beating heart is the tiny island of Ortigia, a maze of pretty streets and stunning piazzas lined with baroque palazzi and churches, including the fabulous duomo. Its world-class archaeological site, meanwhile, is home to a Greek theatre, a Roman amphitheatre and a variety of other remains.
Last but not least, in terms of size, artistry, quality and variety, the 5th century CE mosaics of the Villa Romana del Casale rival any in the Mediterranean.
The southwest of Sicily
Southwest Sicily, running east from the major fishing port of Mazara del Vallo across to Agrigento, is a varied area indeed and one that invites exploration. Carpeted with vineyards and olive groves, home to some of the Mediterranean’s most prestigious Greek archaeological sites (think Selinunte and the Valley of the Temples), and delimited by seemingly endless stretches of sandy beach, there is something for all tastes. Inland, ancient mountain villages preserve age-old traditions and offer fascinating insights into the island’s history.
In the last decade, the southwest of Sicily has found itself back on the map, an unspoilt, genuine and humble corner of Sicily with much to offer the curious visitor.
Nature, food and wine
The craggy mountains of the interior give way to rolling hills, which gently descend to the coastline and around 150km of sandy beaches, several of which are practically deserted even in the high summer months. Dramatically positioned, time-defying villages and towns cling to the inland mountains and a visit to the area would be incomplete without a trip to one of two of them, such as Caltabellotta or Palazzo Adriano (where Nuovo Cinema Paradiso was filmed). The Sicani National Park offers great walking, as do the area's two outstanding coastal nature reserves of the Belice River Delta and Torre Salsa.
One of the few interruptions to the sandy beaches are the multi-strata, wind-sculpted, chalk and marl cliffs of La Scala dei Turchi.
In terms of gastronomy, fish dishes reign supreme: two of Italy's largest fishing fleets work out of Mazara del Vallo and Sciacca, ensuring that the freshest seafood is always on the menu. Cheese-making is an important element of the area’s gastronomic life, as is olive oil production. The thriving local wine industry, meanwhile, produces some of Sicily’s best vintages, making the southeast a go-to destination for those who enjoy vineyard-hopping and wine-tasting.
History and monuments
Powerful Greek colonies were established in Agrigento and Selinunte in the 6th century BCE, and their archaeological sites are amongst the most impressive in the entire Mediterranean basin. Dating back to a similar period are the Cave di Cusa, the quarries from which Selinunte’s column sections were hewn, and Eraclea Minoa, whose theatre sits in an unrivalled panoramic position looking out to sea. With the arrival of the Romans, Sciacca’s potential as a spa town was maximised and still today people head there to take the waters.
During Arabic rule, between the 9th and the 11th centuries, one of Sicily’s most important towns was Mazara del Vallo. Its umbilical link with North Africa continues today, thanks to a large number of Tunisians who have settled there over the years to work on the fishing fleet.
In 1282, the Sicilian Vespers – a revolution against the island’s Angevin rulers - was officially brought to a close with the signing of a treaty in Caltabellotta, a vertiginously-perched mountain-top town above Sciacca.
The southwest of Sicily fell into peaceful anonymity and relative obscurity for centuries and only in the last decade or so has it found itself back on the map, an unspoilt, genuine and humble corner of Sicily with much to offer the curious visitor.
The northwest of Sicily
History is everywhere in the northwestern corner of Sicily, and its Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Arabic and Norman roots are evident at every turn. Any visit to the area must include trips to the ancient towns of Trapani, Erice and Marsala, while other centres, such as Alcamo and Castellammare del Golfo also have history and charm. The landscape is varied, comprising a vast vineyard-and-olive-tree-carpeted plain (the Val di Mazara), the ruggedly beautiful mountainous coastline of Lo Zingaro, and the wheat-burnished rolling hills around Salemi and Catalafimi.
Nature, food and wine
The dramatic coastline below the picturesque village of Scopello, with its old tonnara, sea stacks, and rugged, prickly pear-covered cliffs soon gives way to Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve, home to a series of small pebbly beaches, mountains that crash into the sea, and some superb coastal walking paths. The reserve's western extremity is linked by a panoramic coastal road to the popular summer resort of San Vito Lo Capo, which boasts arguably Sicily’s most perfect beach.
A semi man-made landscape of outstanding natural beauty, meanwhile, can be found on the coast between Trapani and Marsala, in the form of the salt pans and the Stagnone lagoon, home to the ancient Carthaginian island of Mozia.
The west of Sicily is a great destination for food lovers. Inland, the scenery is dominated by vast expanses of vineyards and olive groves and some of Sicily's best wines – for example those of the Alcamo, Trapani, Erice and Marsala areas - and olive oils are produced in this corner of the island. Restaurant menus offer a fabulous array of fresh fish and seafood dishes. Fish couscous is one of the signature dishes, a tradition that is celebrated every September at San Vito’s international Cous Cous Fest. Other stand-out specialities include busiate al pesto Trapanese - a homemade pasta served with a pesto of tomatoes, garlic, almonds and basil - and spaghetti alla bottarga - salt-cured tuna fish roe grated on steaming pasta.
Fish couscous is one of the signature dishes, a tradition that is celebrated every September at San Vito’s international Cous Cous Fest.
History and monuments
The Carthaginians landed in Sicily in the 8th century BC and set up colonies at Mozia (Motya), Marsala, Erice, Palermo and Solunto. Next to arrive were the Greeks, and the architecture and philosophy of Magna Graecia inspired the creation of northwestern Sicily’s most renowned archaeological site – the Elymian temple and theatre at Segesta.
The Romans ousted the Greeks in the east and then fought for control of Sicily against Carthage. One of the last acts of the First Punic War was a naval battle off the Egadi Islands, won by Rome. Marsala quickly became an important strategic outpost of the Roman Empire
Western Sicily's vicinity to North Africa had always made it an important trading area
The 18th century saw the arrival of English merchants, such as Woodhouse, Ingham and the Whitakers, who transformed the local Marsala wine into an international commodity.
Some 80 years later, in 1860, Garibaldi, the Hero of the Two Worlds, arrived in Marsala with his 1,000 men to begin the Unification of Italy, otherwise known as the Risorgimento.
The north of Sicily
Stretching from Messina, the closest point to mainland Italy, to Palermo, the island's capital city, the north coast of Sicily is home to some stunning beaches and seascapes, many fascinating towns, including Cefalù, and three separate mountain ranges, essentially continuations of the Appennini: the Peloritani Mountains to the east, the Nebrodi in the middle and the Madonie towards the west. With peaks rising to nearly 2,000m (6,000ft) the north coast area features some of Sicily's most beautiful landscapes, vast areas of agricultural land and myriad picturesque villages to explore.
Nature, food and wine
The sandy beaches of Tindari, with its amazing tongue of sand, Capo d'Orlando, San Gregorio, Cefalù and Mondello, just outside Palermo, are some of the finest in Sicily. The Madonie and Nebrodi Mountains offer wonderful hiking opportunities and both ranges are scattered with millennial villages and small towns, including the mediaeval centres of Castelbuono, Petralia Soprana, Gangi and Polizzi Generosa.
Up in the hills and on the promontory of Milazzo, vineyards planted with ancient local grape variants such as Nero D’Avola, Inzolia and Cataratto produce some of Sicily’s best wines, while gastronomic specialities abound. Down on the coast, fish and seafood reign supreme (think swordfish, tuna, prawns, mussels, clams and octopus) while up in the mountains, tables groan with mushrooms, hearty soups, cheeses, sausages and roast meats. Palermo is a culinary capital in its own right and its specialities include pasta con le sarde (with sardines, raisins, pine nuts and wild fennel), pannelle (chickpea flour fritters), and sfincione (a type of soft-crust pizza topped with tomatoes, anchovies and onions).
The sandy beaches of the north at Tindari, with its amazing tongue of sand, Capo d'Orlando and San Gregorio, Cefalù and Mondello are some of the finest in Sicily.
History and monuments
Sicily’s ancient history (as distinguished from its pre-history) began in the area around Palermo with the arrival of the Carthaginians in the 8th century BCE. Their colonies at Panormus (now Palermo), Solunto, Mozia and Erice provided ample rivalry for the Greeks of Agrigento and Selinunte, who arrived in the west a couple of centuries later. The Romans also left their mark, most notably at Solunto just outside Palermo, and in Tindari.
The Arabs, who invaded in the early 9th century CE, chose Palermo as their centre of power and many street names in the old town centre, not to mention the souk-like markets, are of Arabic origin.
During its two golden ages, Palermo was one of the most important cities in Europe. Much of what made it great in the past survives today, meaning that it is a fascinating city to explore. The city's Arab-Norman-Byzantine architecture, along with the magnificent cathedrals of Monreale and Cefalù, constitutes a UNESCO World Heritage Site, while its baroque palazzi, churches and villas (notably those in Bagheria), and its Art Nouveau Liberty-style architecture are a wonder to behold.
The Normans were followed by Emperor Frederick II, Stupor Mundi, and over the 13th and 14th centuries, numerous castles were built in the hills and mountains and along the north coast, most notably those of Caccamo, Castelbuono, Sperlinga and Milazzo. Frederick was followed by the Angevin French and then by the Spanish, whom we must thank for much of the flamboyant baroque architecture we can admire today.
Sicily's interior
Most visitors to Sicily don’t venture far from the coast, save perhaps for a trip to see Mount Etna or the mosaics at Piazza Armerina. That's a shame, because Sicily's hinterland is vast, varied and full to interest.
It is true that with over 1,000 km of coastline, there is plenty to do without going inland, but when you consider that Sicily has a surface area of 25,708 square kilometres (roughly the same size as the US states of Massachusetts or New Hampshire, one and a quarter times the size of Wales and four-fifths of the size of Belgium), and that this area includes a 3,323 metre high active volcano, mountains almost 2,000 metres above sea level, and hundreds of towns and villages exhibiting over 2,500 years of European history, it becomes clear that the Sicilian interior has much to offer.
The Italian mainland is just 3 km away across the straits of Messina, and the reappearance of the Appenine mountains in northeastern Sicily determines the geography of much of the island. The Peloritani, the Nebrodi and the Madonie, the three tallest mountain ranges, dominate the area between Messina and Palermo and offer the more adventurous traveller rich rewards with spectacular views, fauna and flora and mountain village communities, where the way of life, traditions and culture are greatly different from those down on the coast.
Whether you prefer to stay in a sea front villa or an apartment in a mountain village, mountains or coast are easily accessible.
South of the Peloritani and the Alcantara valley, Etna gives way to the flat plain of Catania, with its rich citrus groves. Moving south east the limestone Iblean plateau dominates the Val di Noto, where the calamitous earthquake of 1693 left its legacy in the form of some of the most splendid Baroque architecture in Europe at Noto, Modica, Ragusa and Scicli.
Moving northwest from Ragusa and Chiaramonte Gulfi, the Monti Irei stretch past Caltagirone and Piazza Armerina all the way to Enna. Here, huge expanses of grain production bear testimony to ancient times when grain from Sicily fed the Roman armies that conquered Europe.
The landscape softens towards Agrigento and across to Selinunte and Menfi, where some serious wine production gets going, but the Monti Sicani just inland stretch almost all the way to Palermo, passing several fascinating towns with evocative names: Caltabellotta, Bisaquino, Palazzo Adriano (set of Cinema Paradiso) and, last but not least, Corleone.
The western plain of the Val di Mazara is flanked at its easternmost end by hills and other valleys, such as the Valle del Belice, which cuts south towards Menfi. In 1968, a terrible earthquake destroyed several towns here, most famously Gibellina and Poggioreale. The story of these towns' abandonment and subsequent rebuilding is a riveting one.
The Val di Mazara widens significantly towards its western extremity, where most of the land is given over to vineyards and olive groves. High above all this, sitting atop its very own mountain at the northwestern edge of the valley, is the beautiful mediaeval town of Erice, whose breathtaking views of western Sicily are unmissable.
