White Dovecote

In terms of beaches, the closest is Kolimbithra on the east coast. Boasting two sandy bays, translucent waters, and a couple of tavernas, it is easily reachable by car in about 10 minutes. Other beaches within a 30-minute drive include Agios Romanos and Kalivia on the west coast, and Agios Fokas and Agios Sostis on the south coast.

Agapi has its own handy mini-market, and there is a larger one in the nearby village of Komi, just over 2km away.

The island’s capital, Tinos Town, is just 20 minutes’ drive away, and it is here that you will find all the amenities you might require, from minimarkets and banks to petrol stations and chemists’. It’s a gentle place, with a weave of pretty streets, a good selection of tavernas, and a bustling port. Arguably the star of the show is the church of Panagía Evangelístria, one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the Greek Orthodox world. Built in 1830 in florid renaissance style, it houses an icon of the Virgin Mary that is said to have performed numerous miracles.

Measuring just 27km long and 13km wide, Tinos is easy to explore in a week or two. Both the east and the west coasts feature a series of little coves, many of which have sandy beaches. A day or two exploring these by boat is highly recommended, also because some are difficult to access on foot or by car.

The interior of Tinos is mountainous and home to a liberal scattering of pretty whitewashed villages, such as Volax (known for its massive rock formations), Pyrgos (also called Panormos, a historic centre of marble sculpting with an interesting marble craft museum), Loutra (home to an Ursuline convent and an impressive cave), Steni, Dio Choria, Komi, Ysternia, Tripotamos and Skalados. Many of these have their origins in Byzantine and Venetian times and it is no coincidence that they were all built at a safe distance from the sea. The rocky landscape is also home to numerous intricately designed dovecotes and cylindrical windmills, both architectural traditions introduced by the Venetians, who ruled the island between the 13th and the early 18th century.

The most northerly quarter of Tinos is largely uninhabited, but there is a curious profusion of churches and chapels. The simple roads that connect them are interesting to explore on foot or bike, and one really has the feeling of being off the beaten track.

The highest point of the island is the mountain of Tsiknias, which stands at 750m, but arguably the most interesting peak is the jagged stone cone of Exomvourgo (641m). It was here that the Venetians built an impregnable fortress that was never vanquished, despite numerous attempts by Ottoman forces. It only fell into Ottoman hands in 1715, when the governor surrendered, an act of treachery that enraged La Serenissima so much that he was sentenced to life imprisonment on his return home.

Lastly, if you wish to indulge in a little island-hopping, frequent ferry services connect Tinos Town to Mykonos. Crossings take just 22-35mins, meaning that it’s perfectly viable to go for a day trip.