Apanemi

The surrounding coastline is home to a series of lovely beaches, including those at Agios Petros, Kalivia (both walkable in about 15 minutes), Giannaki, and Agios Romanos (these last two also have tavernas).

The island’s capital, Tinos Town, is just over 30 minutes’ drive away, and it is here that you will find all the amenities you might require, from minimarkets and banks to petrol stations and chemists’. It’s a gentle place, with a weave of pretty streets, a good selection of tavernas, and a bustling port. Arguably the star of the show is the church of Panagía Evangelístria, one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the Greek Orthodox world. Built in 1830 in florid renaissance style, it houses an icon of the Virgin Mary that is said to have performed numerous miracles.

Measuring just 27km long and 13km wide, Tinos is easy to explore in a week or two. The west coast is a series of little coves, many of which have little sandy beaches , and a day or two exploring these by boat is highly recommended, also because some are difficult to access on foot or by car. Longer stretches of sand can be found at Agios Fokas and Laouti on the south coast below Tinos Town.

The interior of Tinos is mountainous and home to a liberal scattering of pretty whitewashed villages, such as Pyrgos (Panormos), Steni, Dio Choria, Komi, Ysternia, Tripotamos and Skalados. Many of these have their origins in Byzantine and Venetian times and it is no coincidence that they were all built at a safe distance from the sea. The rocky landscape is also home to numerous intricately designed dovecots and cylindrical windmills, both architectural traditions introduced by the Venetians, who ruled the island between the 13th and the early 18th century.

The most northerly quarter of Tinos is largely uninhabited, but there is a curious profusion of churches and chapels. The simple roads that connect them are interesting to explore on foot or bike, and one really has the feeling of being off the beaten track.

The highest point of the island is the mountain of Tsiknias, which stands at 750m, but arguably the most interesting peak is the jagged stone cone of Exomvourgo (641m). It was here that the Venetians built an impregnable fortress that was never vanquished, despite numerous attempts by Ottoman forces. It only fell into Ottoman hands in 1715, when the governor surrendered, an act of treachery that enraged La Serenissima so much that he was sentenced to life imprisonment on his return home.

Lastly, if you wish to indulge in a little island-hopping, frequent ferry services connect Tinos Town to Mykonos. Crossings take just 22-35mins, meaning that it’s perfectly viable to go for a day trip.