Archipelagos and islands of Sicily
An introduction to the Aeolian Islands, Sicily
Unique beauty, fascinating geophysical characteristics (two of the islands are active volcanoes!), a wealth of history, myriad Greek myths and legends, wonderful sea-swimming, great beaches, stunning views, mountain and coastal walking galore, mouthwatering cuisine and luscious sweet dessert wines... Despite all this, the Aeolian Islands remain fairly unknown outside of Italy and surprisingly unspoiled outside the peak weeks of August.
There are seven inhabited islands in this volcanic archipelago, each offering its own distinct atmosphere, sense of hospitality, and charm.
Filicudi is the larger of the two minor westerly islands, still unspoiled by tourism and far from being developed. There are three villages, offering a few restaurants and markets, scooter, car and boat rental. There aren’t any sandy beaches, but plenty of rocky coastal stretches and pebble beaches with wonderful swimming in crystal clear water.
Alicudi is the second smallest of the seven, the wildest and the most remote. There is only one hotel (with the island's only restaurant), a few houses and very few shops.... a paradise for people in search of complete quiet and relaxation.
Salina is the greenest and the most fertile of the Aeolian Islands, famous for its capers and its sweet Malvasia wine. It is neither as developed for tourists as Vulcano or Lipari nor as fashionable (and expensive) as Panarea, but boasts some excellent restaurants, cafés and shops. Its ancient Greek name, Didyme, means twins and refers to the Bactrian camel-backed shape of its two long-extinct volcanic cones. There are excellent opportunities for walking.
Then comes Vulcano, the island that gave its name to all volcanoes. Famous for its mud baths (fanghi) and its still smoking main crater. Depending on the wind, you might be immediately hit by the characteristic sulfurous smell coming from the hot springs. Vulcano gets very crowded in July and August, and the quality of its restaurants is not particularly good. But the walk up to the impressive crater and a visit to the small villages of Gelso and Piano (you can rely on the local bus service or rent a scooter) make an interesting and pleasant day trip.
Lipari is the biggest and most populous of the Aeolian Islands. Historically, it has been the most important island over the centuries, since Neolithic times. There is a quite efficient bus service connecting the larger town of Lipari to the other smaller villages but the easiest way to get around is by renting a scooter.
Apart from a few very beautiful walks (maps of the island with suggested itineraries are on sale at the newsagents and a few other shops), the must-see of the island is the Museo Eoliano, a very impressive archaeological museum, housed in the buildings around the Duomo, in the upper part of town, still surrounded by old city walls. Also quite impressive are the white pumice quarries in the northeast of the island, which give the water an amazing turquoise colour.
Dramatic Stromboli, in permanent eruption, maybe the most famous and spectacular of the Aeolian Islands. It is certainly one of the most active volcanoes in Europe and well worth an ascent to the top (when possible!).
Panarea is the smallest and the most fashionable of the seven Aeolian Islands. It owes its fame to the Hotel Raya, which in the summer attracts the international jet-set. The hotel's terrace is the place to be at aperitivo time, and its disco keeps guests entertained until dawn…but only in August! In low season it‘s very quiet (there are only a few small electric cars), and offers beautiful walks and unique swimming opportunities in the many surrounding islets.
Gastronomically speaking, Aeolian cuisine focuses on fresh fish, capers, peppers and tomatoes. The local table wines are very drinkable, while the sweet Malvasia delle Lipari, or “Malmsey” (to Nelson’s sailors) is particularly famous.
The Aeolians are easily reached by ferries and hydrofoils from Milazzo (in northeast Sicily and whose history is inextricably linked to that of the islands), Palermo, Messina and Naples.
We are proud to be partners of the Aeolian Islands Preservation Fund.
Insider tip: In Lingua on Salina, an obligatory stop for most Sicilians is Bar Alfredo, whose granitas are famed! Alternatively, head for Hotel SantaIsabel in Malfa on Salina for an aperitif or after-dinner drink. It has a splendid terrace lounge bar overlooking the sea.
The island of Lipari
Leaving behind the sulphurous air of Vulcano, the mother of all volcanoes, and sailing due north, one soon comes to Lipari, the largest of the seven inhabited Aeolian Islands. Translucent waters give way to green hills and the ancient fortified walls of Lipari Town rise protectively above its two ports.
Lipari, apart from being the largest and most populated of the Aeolian Islands, is also the archipelago’s hydrofoil hub, meaning that anyone wishing to island-hop a little should consider staying there as a base.
Before setting off to explore other islands, however, there is plenty for visitors to discover on Lipari itself.
History of Liprari
Lipari boasts a rich history that has seen the island pass under the control of numerous Mediterranean powers, including the Greeks, the Carthaginians, the Romans, the Arabs, the Normans, the Angevins, and the Aragonese. Many millennia before the arrival of these colonists, however, Lipari was already an important trading centre specialising in the commerce of obsidian, a hard black volcanic glass used for making tools and weapons.
The Greeks arrived in the early 6th century BC and remained for several hundred years. In the 4th century BCE the island became a strategic ally of Dionysius, the immensely powerful Tyrant of Siracusa, and prospered as a result. As Greek influence eventually waned, however, Lipari passed under the control of ancient Rome. It became embroiled in the First Punic War, being captured and transformed into a naval base by the Carthaginians before falling once more into Roman hands in 251 BCE. Then, in 36BCE, Lipari found itself once more at the epicentre of world events as Agrippa, using the island as a naval base, defeated Sextus Pompeius in the Battle of Naulochus off Sicily's north coast. This historic victory was a major step in the transformation of Octavian from a power-sharing triumvir into Rome's first Emperor, the omnipotent Augustus, in 27BC. After Naulochus, Lipari became something of a holiday resort for wealthy Romans in need of some R&R.
After the demise of Rome, Lipari experienced several centuries of relative obscurity. Following the general flow of Sicilian history, Arabs and Normans came and went. Then, 1544, Barbarossa, the Ottoman Admiral, attacked Lipari and cast the entire population of the island into slavery. Charles V, the Aragonese Holy Roman Emperor, quickly took back the island, resettled it with Spanish subjects and built imposing fortified walls on the site of the Greek acropolis, thus securing the town from future incursions. It is these walls that today enclose Lipari Town’s castle, its cathedral and its world-class archaeological museum, whose rooms contain a vast array of artefacts documenting Lipari’s long, dramatic and varied history.
In the 1920s and 30s, Lipari, like several other Italian islands, was used as a detention centre for critics of Mussolini’s regime. Ironically, when his daughter, Edda Mussolini, returned to Italy from Switzerland after the end of the war, she herself was detained in Lipari while awaiting trial for her Fascist past.
A stay in Lipari would not be complete, however, if you didn’t take to the sea to discover the island from the water, stopping off for swims in otherwise inaccessible coves.
Lipari Town
Lipari Town centres around the café-, bar- and restaurant-flanked Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which runs from north to south between the two harbours - Marina Lunga, where hydrofoils and ferries dock, and Marina Corta, the picturesque old port, which is home to a picturesque piazza offering splendid views of bobbing fishing boats, the sailors’ Church of the Anime del Purgatorioto and the sea. High above, on the eastern extremity of the town and enclosed by the 16th century fortified walls, is the castle, the archaeological museum, the Cathedral of San Bartolomeo, some ancient Greek ruins and a couple of panoramic viewing points. The town is great fun to wander around and has a buzzing atmosphere in the summer months.
Beaches and other sights of Lipari
At just 9km long and 7km wide, discovering Lipari is easily done in a week, and the panoramic road that circles the island provides great driving, whether by car or moped. Heading north up the east coast from Lipari Town one soon comes to Canneto, a fishing village with a long pebbly beach and plenty of lidos for the summer. Further up the east coast, passing a couple of shingle bays, are the old pumice quarries, whose bright white stone gives the sea an extraordinarily tempting crystal turquoise colour. A swim here is something to remember.
On the northern coast of the island is the long lava pebble beach of Acquacalda, a small village whose name derives from the hot volcanic springs that drew pleasure seekers here in antiquity. From the northeastern tip of the island, the road heads inland and south through the foothills of the mountainous interior, whose peaks rise to 600m. While not the best island for hikers (Stromboli, Vulcano and Salina may be considered better), Lipari does offer some lovely walks.
A stay in Lipari would not be complete, however, if you didn’t take to the sea to discover the island from the water, stopping off for swims in otherwise inaccessible coves.
The island of Panarea
Tiny Panarea, the smallest of the inhabited Aeolian Islands, measures just 2.5km by 1.8km. This diminutive size, however, belies its status as the archipelago’s "VIP island”.
In the summer, the island’s 300 permanent residents are joined by Italy and Europe’s elite (think members of the Bulgari, Visconti and Borghese families, Prince Laurent of Belgium and many others) who own houses there. With them arrive a Hollywoodian list of all-star guests which, in recent years, has included Uma Thurman, Antonio Banderas and Melanie Griffith, Beyoncé and Jay Z, Princess Caroline, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. Then there’s the flotilla of mega yachts that come and go, bringing their billionaire owners, such as Roman Abramovic, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana, to experience a little of the island’s bohemian-aristocratic chic.
Despite this influx of the rich and famous, those who know the island best eschew its glamorous image, preferring to describe it as a secretive, down-to-earth place, a hideaway where little happens and simple pleasures reign supreme. As Verde Visconti, Prada’s director of public relations and celebrities told W Magazine, “A lot of people come to Panarea for the VIP social scene, but then they get here and see that nothing is going on, and chances are they don’t come back again.”
Panarea’s unique atmosphere and enchanting isolation started attracting a few adventurous tourists in the 1950s and with the opening of the unashamedly not-luxury-but-oh-so-trendy Hotel Raya in the 1960s, the island became renowned as a place where you could party hard, an alternative to the more traditional Capri. Still today at the Raya, one may dance the night away at the hotel’s open-air disco overlooking the sea. Those who prefer a little peace and quiet, meanwhile, head north or south from the main town of San Pietro to the island’s other two villages of Ditella and Drauto. There, as the tranquil evening dusks to dark, fortunate residents gaze out across the water and watch Stromboli spray incandescent magma into the night’s sky.
...those who know the island best eschew its glamorous image, preferring to describe it as a secretive, down-to-earth place, a hideaway where little happens and simple pleasures reign supreme...
The eastern third of Panarea is given over to (sparsely) inhabited areas, while the other two-thirds consist of green hills, terraced agricultural land and volcanic formations. The central port of San Pietro is a picturesque web of white-washed streets and home to most of the island’s restaurants, bars and shops. It is here, also, where you might rent a boat for a trip around the island or hail a ride on one of the golf carts that shuttle people from place to place (Panarea is a strictly car-free island). Alternatively, considering the island’s reduced dimensions, one may walk pretty much anywhere. A hike up to the top of Punta del Corvo, the island’s highest point at 421m, is well worth the effort for the superb views over the entire Aeolian archipelago.
Most of Panarea’s beaches are also fairly easy to walk to, though make sure you take provisions, as lidos are practically non-existent. At the southernmost point of the island is Cala Junco, a pebbly inlet with crystalline transparent waters. To the east of this is Punta Milazzese, home to both a lovely pebbly beach and a little promontory with the remains of a Bronze Age village. Heading north a little, one soon comes to Cala dei Zimmari, the island’s only sandy beach. Meanwhile, in the northeast of Panarea, just below the little hamlet of Ditella, is the Spiaggia della Calcara, a unique beach thanks to its smoking, sulfurous fumaroles, boiling underwater springs and magical views of Stromboli. The west of the island, reachable only on foot or by boat, is characterized by cliffs and the remains of a collapsed volcanic crater, now the site of a small beach, Cala Bianca.
Apart from taking a boat trip around the island - the best way to find your own deserted cove - one may also be to head out to the five islets just off Panarea’s east coast: Dattilo, Lisca Bianca, Basiluzzo, Lisca Nera and Bottaro. All are excellent for snorkelling and scuba-diving.
Lastly, anyone staying at the end of June must not miss the Festival of San Pietro, the island’s patron saint. Celebrations begin on 28th June with a night of music, dancing, eating and drinking followed, on 29th June, by a sea-borne procession of the statue of San Pietro. Once a fisherman, like so many of the islanders used to be, Saint Peter is celebrated with a passion that the locals usually only reserve for their little island.
The island of Salina
In the 1995 film Il Postino, Mario Ruoppolo, the gentle postman of the title, tells the poet Pablo Neruda that “poetry doesn’t belong to those who write it; it belongs to those who need it.” Set and partly filmed on the island of Salina, one of the beautiful hundreds of islanders were forced to emigrate. In 1891 alone, 200 left to make new lives in America or Australia. Over the next decade, many more would follow, leaving behind not only a decimated wine industry but also a decimated population. Today, thankfully, excellent quality Malvasias are being produced on the island and we heartily recommend you try some.
Salina is a green and fertile land, home to around 2,500 people, 400 different types of plants and topographically characterised by its twin (inactive) volcanoes...
The surrounding sea is, as one might expect, simply beautiful. Though many of the beaches are rocky rather than sandy, the water is extremely clean and home to a wide variety of sea life, plants, caves and submerged volcanic craters. The bay at Pollara (where several scenes of Il Postino was filmed) is one of the most splendid in the entire Aeolian archipelago.
So, if you’re in need of a break, a little relaxation, good food and wine and a few days of sea and sunshine, remember that Salina doesn’t belong to those who live there; it belongs to those who need it.
An introduction to the Egadi Islands, Sicily
Lying like so many partially submerged giant whales just a few miles off the coast of Trapani (west Sicily), the three Egadi Islands offer a great deal of charm and diversity.
With a permanent population of around 5,000 spread over the three islands, the Egadis boast a long history and yet have somehow remained largely unchanged over the years. It is still possible to find isolated bays and coves, deserted mountain paths and a pace of life which is extremely relaxing.
The historical high point of the islands, at least on an “global” level, was 241 BCE when the First Punic War was brought to an end here. Catulus defeated the Carthaginian fleet there and a treaty was signed whereby Sicily was handed over to the Roman Empire.
However, the history goes back much further. On both Favignana (the largest and most populated of the islands) and Levanzo (the smallest) there are some Paleolithic and Neolithic cave paintings. The most famous of these is the Grotta del Genovese on Levanzo. Discovered only in 1949 these incisions and charcoal and animal fat graffiti show scenes from daily life including fishing for tuna, animal husbandry and even dancing.
Today, the archipelago is a flourishing, but as yet unspoilt holiday destination. Each island has its own distinct characteristics but all share a one important feature: the irresistible, crystalline waters of the Egadi Islands Marine Reserve, one of the largest and most various in Europe.
Favignana, or La Farfalla as it is often referred to thanks to its butterfly shape, is the largest and most important of the islands. It lies some 10 miles of the Trapani coast and is a popular holiday destination in the summer months, largely thanks to the beauty of its bays and coves, such as Cala Rossa.
The historical highpoint of the islands, at least on an “international” level was 241BC when the First Punic War was brought to an end here.
Levanzo is the smallest of the Egadis but no less inviting for that. It is hilly, though the highest peak, Pizzo dei Monaco, only rises to 278m. Much of the coastline is made up of dramatic rocky cliffs, though there are a few lovely beaches. Everything is minimal: there is one village (Cala Dogana), one road, two shops, two hotels and two restaurants. Peace and quiet are ensured, and stressful city life soon becomes a distant memory. Its main sight is the aforementioned Grotta dei Genovesi, but apart from this there is wonderfully little to do except walking, going on boat trips, swimming, reading and eating.
Marettimo is the most isolated of the Egadi Islands, lying a full 15 miles off the coast of Trapani. It is wonderfully unspoilt both in terms of its marine life and its rugged mountainous hinterland. Dramatic limestone cliffs plummet towards the cobalt-blue sea, endless panoramas abound, and mountain paths offer wonderful walking.
Getting to the Egadi Islands is very easy. Just hop on one of the frequent hydrofoils from Trapani or Marsala and in 15-20 minutes, you'll be there.
The Island of Favignana
The hydrofoils from Trapani and Marsala arrive at Favignana Town's bustling little harbour, which, for centuries, was protected by the Fort of Santa Caterina. Originally built by the Arabs as a watchtower, subsequently enlarged by the Normans, and later used as a prison by the Bourbon Kings, the fort offers wonderful views for those willing to hike up the hill on which it sits. With its two piazzas, its pedestrianised streets, and its lovely sandy beach, Favignana Town has an easy, unpretentious charm and a relaxing atmosphere.
Favignana Town is also home to two buildings that give us an insight into the archipelagos' history. The first, Palazzo Florio, is a grand mansion overlooking the harbour built by Ignazio Florio, once one of Italy’s richest and most powerful industrialists. Ignazio Florio didn’t just build and invest in Favignana, however, he actually purchased the whole island in 1874, along with all commercial fishing rights.
Favignana's community jealously guards a treasure trove of myths, legends, and peculiar stories handed down over generations.
Florio quickly began work on enlarging and beautifying an existing tuna processing plant situated across the bay from his palazzo. One of Palermo’s foremost architects, Giuseppe Damiani Almeyda, was engaged to carry out this work, ensuring that the building was not only highly functional but also aesthetically pleasing. The tonnara on Favignana was one of several owned by the Florios in Sicily, but arguably their most important, for it was here that they trialled and perfected new industrial processes, including a groundbreaking technique for preserving tuna in olive oil, and the invention of a key-opened tin can.
After the demise of the Florio empire in the early 20th century, the tonnara continued to function under a variety of owners until the late 1980s. In the early years of the 21st century, it was completely restored by the regional government of Sicily and since 2010 has hosted a museum dedicated to the island’s tuna industry and the mattanza (the traditional tuna cull).
Long before the Florios came to exploit the island’s resources, Favignana had been a Roman outpost. During the First Punic War, several naval battles were fought off the coast of Favignana, including one sanguinary clash which turned the water red – hence the name of Cala Rossa, one of the island’s most picturesque bays. The spoils of the Roman victory included Favignana, which provided the Roman Empire with a rich source of tuff stone. Quarries were dug all over the island and these angular depressions are very much part of the topographical make-up of Favignana today. Our villa, Zu Nillu, is set in and above its very own Roman quarry.
If tuff stone quarrying and tuna fishing are things of the past, tourism is very much Favignana’s present, even though the island remains largely a destination for Italians in the know. What most people come for are the island’s transparent, electric blue waters. Numerous idyllic coves have been sculpted into the coastline by Mother Nature, including the irresistible trio of Cala Rossa, Cala Azzurra and Cala Rotonda. Alternating with these coves are a myriad of sea grottoes, such as Grotta Azzurra, Grotta dei Sospiri (sospiri means “sighs” – it is said that the cave moans or sighs when the wind blows from a particular direction), and Grotta degli Innamorati (Lovers’ Cave). These can be visited by boat (we thoroughly recommend you see the island from the sea) and are particularly popular with scuba divers and snorkellers.
As you might imagine, Favignana’s culinary traditions are closely connected to the sea. Tuna – in all its guises, from the choicest cut to salty bottarga (dried and cured tuna roe) - is still very much on the menu, even if the last mattanza took place in 2007. All eateries, from the humblest trattoria to the most sophisticated ristorante, boast menus rich in fish and seafood, freshly caught, respectfully cooked and delicious to eat.
The most popular form of transport on Favignana is the bicycle, and thanks to the island’s diminutive size (it measures under 9km from east to west), it is easy to see it all in a few days.
If, while staying on Favignana, you wish to explore further afield, just hop on one of the frequent hydrofoil crossings to the other Egadi Islands, Levanzo and Marettimo, or to Trapani on Sicily.
The island of Marettimo
Marettimo is the westernmost and most remote of the three Egadi Islands, just over an hour’s hydrofoil ride from Trapani on Sicily’s western tip.
Largely untouched by tourism, the island is a real hideaway, a quiet, sleepy place for most of the year. Then, in the summer months, expat islanders return to see their families, catch up with the news and renew their vows of love for their home. The story of Marettimo’s diaspora and how the islanders took up salmon-fishing in Alaska is the stuff of legend and an intrinsic part of the island’s identity.
Marettimo packs a surprising amount of history and archaeological interest for such a small, relatively remote place. Looking down from a vantage point above the village are the remains of a Roman military outpost, built after the First Punic War and testimony to the strategic importance the island played in antiquity. Next to these ruins is a small Norman church, built after the Arabs were ousted from Sicily in 1072. It was the same Arabs who had built a fortified watchtower on the top of Punta Troia, an unassailable promontory at the northeastern tip of the island. Roger II (the Norman king responsible for building the cathedral in Cefalú) transformed it into an impregnable castle, which remained in use variously as a prison, a military garrison, and a communications centre until the early 20th century. Recently restored, it is now open to the public and is reached either by boat or by trekking along with a splendid, if rugged, coastal path. The reward at the end of this path is a refreshing dip in the sea from the rocks below the castle.
Largely untouched by tourism, the island is a real hideaway, a quiet, sleepy place for most of the year.
Marettimo is a great destination for those who love trekking. A network of well-signposted walking routes crisscrosses the island, offering unending panoramas of heart-quickening beauty. Perhaps the best view of all is to be had from the top of Pizzo Falcone, the island's highest peak at about 500m above sea level.
Marettimo's coastline is one of dramatic charm. Numerous sea caves puncture the plunging, precipitous dolomitic cliffs as they meet the sea. One such is the Grotta del Cammello, which hosts a pebbly beach and the remains of a Roman settlement. A day or two exploring these caves on a boat is a fabulous experience. Lovers of the sea will also delight in the swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving opportunities Marettimo has to offer. Its crystalline waters are an integral part of the Egadi Island Marine Reserve, one of the largest in Europe (along with Alonissos Marine Park in the Greek Sporades Islands).
When it comes to eating out on Marettimo, there are several excellent trattorie and pizzerie to choose from. Fish and seafood (caught fresh and delivered directly to the chefs) rule supreme, and the island has achieved something of a cult status amongst Sicilian food-lovers for its lobster soup. As part of his Great Italian Escape series of 2005, Jamie Oliver spent an entertaining few days on Marettimo having the secrets of the island’s cuisine beaten into him.
One final, curious feature of Marettimo is its large family of English Setters. Bred to help out during the short hunting season, these good-natured pets are allowed to roam free during the day and it is not uncommon to come across one in the most remote parts of the island, hurrying to an appointment somewhere. Independent as they may be, by 6 o-clock they’ve all gone home for their supper.
The black volcanic island of Pantelleria
South of the westernmost tip of Sicily, and closer to Africa than to Europe, lies the Black Pearl of the Mediterranean, the volcanic island of Pantelleria. The largest of all Sicily's off-shore islands, it was the first stepping stone for the Arab invasion of Sicily in the 8th century CE, and its name derives from the Arabic Bint-al Rion, Daughter of the Wind.
Pantelleria is one of Sicily's most characteristic minor islands and is not part of an archipelago. Its rocky coastline, sometimes dramatic, sometimes gentle, extends for just over 31 miles but encapsulates a great deal.
Historically speaking, like most islands in the middle of the Mediterranean, dominating civilisations (including the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Arabs and the Spanish) have come and gone, all leaving their mark in a mesh of interwoven cultures. However, with just 30 miles of open sea separating Pantelleria from Tunisia, Arabic influences are most evident: the traditional houses, dammusi (more of which later), were first built in the 10th century during Maghreb dominion; the two most famous local wines, Moscato and Passito are made from Zibibbo grapes, which were imported by the Arabs; and the names of many villages (Rekhale, Gadir and Kamma, for example) and local dishes (such as cubbaita - almond biscuits - and sciakisciuka - a spicy stew with courgettes) have evident Arabic roots.
As the origin of Pantelleria's name might suggest, the climate is dominated by the gentle breezes that blow almost continually, keeping the temperature below boiling point in the summer months and nudging away rain clouds in the winter - the average annual rainfall is just 350mm.
Well worth a visit in the interior is La Montagna Grande, a National Park area and the island's highest peak, which, at 836m offers wonderful views not only of Pantelleria and the sea, but also, on a clear day, of the North African coast.
The interior of the island is characterised by lava stone walls, several volcanic peaks and liberal scatterings of dammusi. These houses, built-in local lava stone, have domed roofs which function as a means of collecting rainwater. The thick walls keep the interior cool in summer and provide insulation during the winter. Typically, around the main living quarters were stables, a courtyard and a wood-burning oven. Being just one storey high, and thanks to their colour, dammusi blend into the surrounding countryside virtually without altering the general lay of the land. Well worth a visit in the interior is La Montagna Grande, the island's highest peak and a designated national park, which, at 836m, offers wonderful views not only of Pantelleria and the sea but also, on a clear day, of the North African coast.
At the northeastern foot of the mountain is Lo Specchio di Venere (Venus' Looking Glass), a volcanic lake fed by thermal springs. Its name comes from the legend that Venus stopped here to admire herself and to compare her beauty to that of Psyche, her rival in love. While being a centre for water sports and thermal baths, it is also a haven for a great many species of birds that stop off here during their marathon migratory journeys.
It is the sea, however, that attracts most visitors. 300-metre cliffs, inlets, caves and grottos line the coast making a circumnavigation of the island greatly interesting. The symbol of the island, or at least the most photographed feature, is the Elephant, a sea stack that is still connected to the mainland and which, from certain angles, has an uncanny resemblance to head and trunk of a pachyderm. Local legend has it that when the island is short of water, the Elephant sucks up seawater to refill the reservoirs.
The unpolluted water of the surrounding sea means that the variety of marine life is enormous and several species, such as monk seals, that are seen in few other areas of the Mediterranean populate the waters. Pods of dolphins are also frequent visitors and the scuba diving is excellent.
However, no holiday would be complete without good dinners, and Pantelleria has much to offer gastronomically as well. As would well befit an island, fish is king and the freshness and quality are fantastic. Other local specialities to be tried are ricotta and mint ravioli, wines, pesto pantesco (olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, basil and peppers), capers (one of the major agricultural products of the island), fish couscous, and the aforementioned sciakisciuka and cubbaita. All this has to be washed down with lashings of Zibbibo wine and, with dessert, Passito di Pantelleria.
Lampedusa and Linosa
Lampedusa and Linosa (alongside tiny uninhabited Lampione) make up the Pelagie archipelago. The name derives from the Greek, meaning “living in the open sea”, and this is a fairly accurate description of these rather isolated islands. Similar in certain ways, they are fundamentally different in others.
Lampedusa is the larger of the two and the more well-known. It has a thriving tourist season that sees its population swell from around 4,000 to over 10,000 in the summer months. Those choosing the island as a holiday destination do so for two reasons: the idyllic white sandy beaches and the electric blue waters of the sea.
Much nearer Africa than Italy (Lampedusa lies just 113km off the Tunisian coast and over 200km from Sicily), Lampedusa is also geologically African, being connected to the mother continent by an undersea shelf (the depth of the sea separating Lampedusa from Africa is rarely more than 110m).
Linosa, while also being closer to Africa than to Europe, is a volcanic creation whose origins are clear from its three craters, Monte Vulcano (195m), Monte Rosso (186m) and Monte Nero (107m), its black cliffs and its lava sand beach of Gaia Pozzolana. The hospitality of the locals is not confined to tourists, however, and the two islands receive annual visits from some very special guests: loggerhead sea turtles.
The hospitality of the locals is not confined to tourists, however, and the two islands receive annual visits from some very special guests: loggerhead sea turtles.
The beaches of Isola dei Conigli on Lampedusa and Gaia Pozzolana on Linosa are two of the few remaining sites where this species comes to lay their eggs. The islanders are immensely proud of this and are regularly on hand to ensure that everything goes according to plan. Woe betides anyone who disturbs their honoured guests in any way!
One curiosity of this annual event is that all the turtles born on Linosa are female. This is due to the temperature of the lava beach, which retains the heat more than normal sand. The sex of these turtles is determined by a single degree: if the temperature of the sand is over 30°C, then all the newborn are female. If it is less than 30°C, males appear.
For the gastronomic visitor, the Pelagian Islands are also a treat. Fish, quite logically, is the king of the menu and it is fairly common for your dinner’s ingredients to arrive at the restaurant only moments before you. Linosa, which is a little more fertile than its neighbour, also prides itself on its delicious lentil soups.
Scuba diving and snorkelling are amongst the favourite activities of visitors thanks to the transparent waters and the variety of the marine life. Dolphins pass by regularly, enjoying the warm waters, and numerous shipwrecks make for fascinating explorations.
Getting to Lampedusa and Linosa involves either an overnight ferry crossing from Agrigento or Porto Empedocle or flights from Palermo, Catania, Milan, Rome or Naples.
