Paros in a glass: A guide to Greek wines
Picture the scene: white-washed walls bathed in the aureate glow of a setting sun; warm air tempered by whispering breezes; fishing boats at rest on the calm harbour waters; a seafront table adorned with a flickering candle and a cutting of blushing bougainvillea; a chilled bottle of Paros White PDO open and ready for pouring.
Dionysus’s great gift to mankind has been produced on Paros for some five millennia, and over the last 20 years, like in much of Greece, a gently paced viticultural renaissance has been unfolding. Organic farming, small yields, indigenous grape varieties, and the passion of a handful of winemakers for the island’s unique terroir, have all combined to produce a range of distinctive, quality wines that are beginning to achieve international recognition.
The new adventure of Parian viticulture began at the beginning of the 1980s, when the island became one of the first areas in Greece to receive PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status for two of its wines - Paros White PDO, made from 100% Monemvassia grapes, and Paros Red PDO, made from at least 35% red Mandilaria grapes and up to 65% Monemvassia grapes. The latter is the only red PDO wine in Greece to which white grapes may be added.
Subsequently, in 2011, PDO status was granted to Malvasia Paros, a naturally sweet wine made with sun-dried Monemvassia grapes and up to 15% Assyrtiko grapes.
Other grape varieties cultivated on the island include Maloukato, Malagousia, and Roditis (all whites), and Mavrathiro, Vaftra and Aidani Mavro (all reds). This latter is often used to create dry, subtly fruity rosés.
There are around six wineries on the island, each producing a good variety of vintages (including many organic ones). Perhaps the standout is the historic Moraitis winery, based in Naoussa on the north coast. Established in 1910 by Manolis Moraitis, it remains very much a family affair - today the fourth generation have taken the reins. With about 10 hectares of vineyards growing both well-known and rarer, autochthonous grape varieties, Moraitis produces nearly 20 different wines (300,000 bottles in total), including reds, whites, rosés and sweet Malvasias.
The Moraitis family are dedicated not only to creating their own delicious expressions of the Parian terroir, but also to the promotion of the island’s viticultural traditions in general, and a visit to their wine museum in Naoussa (perhaps before a tasting or a vineyard visit) is warmly recommended.
Yammas!
