Festivals and events in Puglia
Winter events in Puglia
January - February
Sacra Rappresentazione dei Magi
Real-life actors represent the Holy Nativity Scenes, from the Annunciation of Mary to the Nativity of Jesus to the Adoration of the Magis.
When? January Where? Monopoli
Il Carnevale di Putignano
The longest and some say oldest Carnival in the world! Four parades with allegorical floats and masked merrymakers and lots more besides!
From the sacred to the profane and back again, the Carnevale di Putignano is one of Puglia’s most important popular festivals in the world, lasting for up to 2 months.
Background of the festival
On 26th December 1394, the relics of Santo Stefano were transferred from Monopoli to Putignano for safekeeping, out of reach of the Turks and other invaders who repeatedly attacked Puglia’s coastal towns.
On arrival at Putignano, the Saint’s relics were welcomed by the locals, who accompanied them to their final resting place in the Church of Santa Maria della Greca. This event, known as the Propaggini, signals the start of Putignano’s Carnival which, depending on when Easter falls, continues for up to two months, until Shrove Tuesday.
The Propaggini daringly combines the sacred and the profane: religious celebrations alternate with worldly satire as performers recite biting poems ridiculing public figures (politicians in particular), modern habits and even the Church.
Carnevale events
The Carnival’s mascot, Farinella (named after a peasant dish of chickpea and barley flour), gets events underway and pops up throughout, urging the revellers on and carrying out practical jokes in his multi-coloured court jester-like costume.
The Carnevale has a multitude of events, including four parades, three on the Sundays leading up to Lent and one on the night of Shrove Tuesday. Artisan-crafted papier-mâché allegorical floats choreographed bands of masked merrymakers stream through the streets to the sound of live music and cheering crowds.
February 2nd, Candlemass, is dedicated to the Festa dell’Orso, whereby a bear (really someone in a bear costume!) is led through the streets on a leash. Like something akin to Groundhog Day, the bear sniffs the air, takes the temperature and looks at the skies. If the weather is good, the bear builds himself a straw den in which to take refuge against the bad weather to come. If the weather is bad, the forecast is rosy...
Each Thursday during the Carnival period is party day, each one dedicated to a different social class: Monsignors, Priests, Widowers, the Mad (unmarried youngsters), married women and married men (the last category referred to rather more cruelly as the Cuckolds!).
Almost every day has something going on, so packed is the calendar of events, but all good things must come to an end and Shrove Tuesday signals the end of the fun and the beginning of Lent, a period of reflection and fasting. Typically, the profane has the last laugh as fake priests run through the town, dipping small brooms in a miniature toilet and 'blessing' passers-by with a splash or two. “The Carnival is dead”, they cry, as the bells of the church mournfully chime 365 farewells... Until next year, my friends, until next year!
PS. If you can't make it in January and February, Putignano hosts a mini summer Carnival at the beginning of July.
When? February Where? Putignano
I Falò di San Giuseppe
In Italy, Father’s Day is on 19th March to coincide with the Festa di San Giuseppe. In an act of purification and hope for a bountiful year, bonfires are lit in towns all around Puglia. Pagan and Christian superstitions merge and local communities bond.
When? 19th March each year Where? Locorotondo, Conversano, Altamura and many other towns.
Spring events and festivals
March - May
La Festa di San Nicola
Celebrating the arrival of San Nicola’s relics in Bari, La Festa di San Nicola attracts thousands of pilgrims from all over the world to join in three days of homage to Bari's Patron Saint. On the second day of the event, a large statue of the Saint is carried along the coast and then back to the Basilica by a colourful flotilla. The event is rounded off with a spectacular firework display.
When sailors from Bari saved the relics of Saint Nicholas from his resting place in Muslim-controlled Myra in 1087, they began a tradition which, in 2012, celebrates its 925th anniversary: the Festa di San Nicola.
Each year, thousands of pilgrims come to Bari from all over the world to give thanks and worship at the tomb of San Nicola. The busiest time of the year, however, is the first 10 days of May, when the Festa di San Nicola takes place. The old town centre around the Basilica di San Nicola is decked out in colourful lights and a palpable sense of excitement courses through the streets.
The Festa begins in earnest on 7th May (though many of the locals have already been partying for some days!) with a stirring historical procession through the streets of Bari Vecchia. A large icon of the Saint is accompanied by around 500 specially costumed attendants and when the Saint is returned to his Basilica for the night, the bells ring out and the celebrations really burst into life.
The following day, a large statue of the Saint is taken out to sea, accompanied by a flotilla of colourfully festooned boats. Crowds of well-wishers wait on dry land for his return in the evening, an event that symbolises the arrival of his relics in Bari over 920 years ago. After a solemn welcome from the city's religious and civic dignitaries, the statue is paraded through the streets back to the Basilica.
9th May, the final day of the core festivities, is given over to religious services celebrating the anniversary of San Nicola’s arrival in Bari. After the last Mass is said, thousands of revellers take to the streets and the skies above become a blank canvas for the polychromatic splendour and thunderous rumble of a thousand and one fireworks...
When? 7th - 9th May each year Where? Bari
La Festa di San Cataldo
Several days of celebration starting with the Palio, a rowing competition, and continuing with a street food festival and a huge fireworks display, all in honour of San Cataldo, the patron saint of Taranto, whose silver statue is transported from the Cathedral and along the canal where it renews its blessing upon the city, before being returned to the Cathedral.
When? 8th-10th May each year Where? Taranto
Buongiorno Ceramica!
A nationwide event celebrating Italy's unparalleled traditions in the creation of ceramics. In Sicily artists' studios, craftsmen's workshops and museums in four of the region's most renowned centres of ceramics production will be open to the public. And of course, there'll be some wine and food on offer, too!
When? The third weekend in May each yearWhere? Laterza (near Matera) and Grottaglie (between Ceglie Messapica and Taranto)
Puglia events in Summer
June - August
La Scamiciata
A historical re-enactment of the victory over the Turks of 2nd June 1678, starting from Fasano and proceeding towards the Sanctuary of the Vergine del Pozzo.
When? June Where? Fasano (province of Brindisi)
La Notte di San Giovanni
Music and tradition on one of the most magical summer nights in Puglia.
When? June Where? Bitetto, Putignano, and Ostuni
San Pietro e Paolo
Every year this festival invites people to visit the beautiful seaside town of Otranto, to taste its delicious local food and get to know the colourful Salento folklore.
When? 28th - 29th June each year Where? Otranto
Danza delle Tarantole
Processions and dances in honour of archaic divinities.
When? 29th June each year Where? Galatina
Locus Jazz Festival
This popular Puglian jazz festival features stars from around the world in a long programme of concerts.
When? June - August Where? Bari, Locorotondo, Fasano and several other towns
Fasano Music Festival
A trio of concerts in the suggestive surroundings of two of Puglia's most fascinating archaeological sites. The first is a jazz duo (singer and saxophonist), the second a well-known tarantella group called Terraross, and the third a 10-piece cello orchestra performing music from the cinema. Tickets include access to the sites before the concerts start.
When? Usually three weekends in July Where? Various venues around Fasano
Alberobello Light Festival
As part of the UN's Year of Light and in celebration of the 125th anniversary of Van Gogh's death, Alberobello's old trulli town centre will be illuminated with hundreds of star images evoking the Dutch artist's masterpiece Starry Night.
When? Last week of July each year Where? Alberobello
Locomotive Jazz Festival
Plenty of gigs in a variety of venues around Salento with a good range of Italian and international performers.
When? Usually July or August Where? Various venues in and around Lecce, Taranto, Ceglie Messapica and Castro
La Festa di Santa Domenica
The little town of Scorrano near Otranto literally lights up in celebration of its Patron Saint, Santa Domenica. The local artisans, many of whom make festival illuminations for towns all over Italy, come into their own creating large wooden structures and arches up to 36m high, dotted with a kaleidoscope of colourful lights. Not to be outdone, local fireworks companies put on an amazing show on the last night.
When? Several days around 6th July each year Where? Scorrano
Festival della Valle d’Itria
This classical music and opera festival, now in its 48th year, boasts a prestigious programme with high profile artists. Tickets can be bought online, but be quick as they sell like hotcakes!
When? July - August Where? Martina Franca (province of Taranto)
Otranto Jazz Festival
Every year, Otranto Castle hosts three days of jazz concerts with many famous national and international jazz players. The 2015 edition couples jazz with wine... what could be better?
When? Usually on the 3rd weekend of July Where? Otranto (province of Lecce)
La Festa di Santa Cristina
A rowing regatta and other events to celebrate the town’s Patron Saint.
When? 23rd July - 25th July every year Where? Gallipoli
Mercatino del Gusto
The centre of Maglie in Salento becomes an open-air food market with stalls offering local produce, pasta-making lessons and lots more besides. Very good fun with children.
When? August Where? Maglie
Corteo Storico di Federico II e Torneo dei Rioni
A celebration of the great Holy Roman Emperor Stupor Mundi with 800 costumed participants parading through the old town centre and the castle built by Frederick himself.
When? August Where? Oria (midway between Taranto and Brindisi)
La Festa dei Martiri Idruntini
Commemorating the 800 martyrs who died at the hands of the Turks in 1480 for refusing to convert to Islam. After a couple of days of solemnity and processions, the mood picks up on the final day with a little partying and a stunning firework display.
When? 13th - 15th August each year Where? Otranto
Sagra di Ferragosto
A lovely music festival and several concerts featuring pizzica dancers and musicians.
When? 15th August each year Where? San Vito dei Normanni (province of Brindisi)
La Festa della Madonna di Leuca
Every year, the Madonna of Leuca is carried through the lively streets of the small and picturesque town in a great procession. The parade is followed at midnight by the famous fireworks, a unique event appreciated by many tourists and locals alike.
When? 15th August each year Where? Santa Maria di Leuca (province of Leuca)
Sagra Pirotecnica della Valle d’Itria
As part of the 5-day celebration of Locorotondo's patron saint, San Rocco, 3 or 4 of Italy's most renowned firework specialists come together for a competition in pyrotechnics. The townsfolk turn out en masse accompanied by droves of curious tourists. At midnight the action begins and it is certainly worth staying up for!
When? August Where? Locorotondo
La Notte della Taranta
This festival is one of the biggest in Italy and is a tribute to the Pizzica Pizzica, Salento’s tarantella dance. Lots of concerts, opportunities to get dancing and to soak up a bit of tradition.
When? August Where? The towns of Grecia Salentina south of Lecce, including Melpignano
Mareviglioso
The town of the great singer-songwriter Domenic Modugno celebrates the bounty of the sea in a festival that fish and seafood lovers should not miss! There are also lots of rowing regattas along the coast.
When? takes place at the end of August each yearWhere? Polignano a Mare
Fiera di Sant’Oronzo
Lecce organises lively music events, food stalls and fireworks in honour of its patron saint.
When? 24th - 26th August each year Where? Lecce
La Cavalcata di Sant'Oronzo
In celebration of the town’s Patron Saint, Sant’Oronzo. The saint’s statue is paraded around town with an escort of knights on horseback.
When? 25th - 27th August each year Where? Ostuni
Autumn events in Puglia
September - November
Festa te lu Mieru - Wine Festival
The moving scenery of the old neighbourhood is the perfect setting for this popular wine festival: three days full of shows, live music and folk dances, but mainly - and most importantly - packed with wine (lu mieru) and food delicacies!
When? September Where? Carpignano Salentino (province of Lecce)
Christmas in Puglia
If you’ve ever dreamed of visiting Santa Claus, you’ve probably been thinking about the North Pole, reindeer, sleigh bells and elves. In reality, you should turn your gaze southwards to Puglia, with its olive trees, trulli and picture-perfect towns, for it is there, in Bari’s basilica, that the mortal remains of Saint Nicholas have rested ever since they were brought back from Myra in 1087.
Christmas in Puglia - or at least the spirit of Christmas - starts early, on 22nd November, when the first pettole are made. These fried pastry balls can be sweet (with honey or sugar), or savoury (with black olives) and are served, cooked and eaten throughout the festive season. Every good Puglian household has some ready for frying just in case unexpected guests knock at the door.
Then, on 8th December, with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, families create their presepi (nativity scenes), one of the most widespread and heartfelt traditions of the Christmas calendar. Following Lecce’s artistic speciality, the figures are often made out of papier-mâché before being painted with vibrant colours and proudly exhibited in a position of prominence. Many churches create elaborate presepi depicting the whole of Bethlehem, and some towns and villages go one step further by organising presepi viventi, full-costumed pageants of the nativity acted out by local groups.
On Christmas Eve, bande di Natale - local town bands - weave through the streets playing Christmas carols, a tradition that once belonged to the zampognari (bagpipe-playing shepherds).
Christmas is also a time for celebration, of course, and Puglian families do so around the dining table, sharing great feasts. While there is no set menu, many families have fish and seafood specialities either on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day, and seasonal tables groan with capitone arrosto (grilled eel), orecchiette, roast lamb with wild onions, lasagne, tortellini, baccalà, fucazieddu (focaccia stuffed with all manner of savoury treats), frittelle (fried gnocchi filled with tomato and mozzarella, onion and capers or ricotta forte cheese), and much more besides.
For those with a sweet tooth, favourite treats include carteddate - fried coils of pastry topped with vincotto (a sticky wine reduction) - and sannachiudere - fried dough balls flavoured with cinnamon, cloves and honey.
Puglia's beautiful old town centres come alive with the spirit of Christmas, and there are few sights quite as magical as Alberobello's trulli or Lecce's baroque treasures decorated with a polychromatic display of lights. Out in the countryside, meanwhile, illuminated olive trees twinkle under the night skies and a tranquil, breathless hush or anticipation precedes the arrival of the big day.
